As we recently reported, premium Welsh distillery Penderyn – the first new whisky distillery to launch in Wales in 100 years – reached a defining milestone in its 26 year history, with the release of their 25-year-old Welsh single malt, followed by the 12-year-old and the soon-to-be-released, 21-year-old.
The initial contact by the distillery’s PR agency whetted appetites and following an email exchange about the possibility of sampling the whiskies, we received a message from Penderyn’s CEO, Stephen Davies, advising that he would be able send out samples.
He also explained that we would be among the first in the country to sample the two new whiskies, an honour and a privilege to be given early access to what are outstanding whiskies.
We were sent a full bottle of the 12-year-old and a small bottle of the 21-year-old. For obvious reasons we were not sent the 25-year-old, which sells for around £1,200 a bottle.
The 12-year-old, which arrived in a beautifully minimal matt black box, with the Penderyn branding embellished in gold lettering, is the focus of this review.
The box also features a subtle silver stamp icon showing the age of the whisky and a small panel including statutory information and a summary of the tasting notes. On the back of the box are more detailed tasting notes set on a white panel.
If the box is impressive, and it is, what about the bottle? We hadn’t even removed the foil around the stopper, but this whisky was already making a statement.
This is a striking monolithic bottle that conveys strength and confidence; the beautiful simplicity incorporates clean lines and minimal labelling allowing the depth of the golden spirit to gleam through. The art deco fins, which increase in depth as the bottle tapers, provide strong visual cues reminiscent of reinforcing buttresses – it’s a design masterpiece.
Penderyn’s designers clearly took the decision to stand out and not to emulate the classic Scottish whiskies in ‘me too’ packaging, which might have been the cheaper option, but would have devalued the whisky and made it invisible on the backbar.
For brands to succeed they need three elements to combine seamlessly: packaging, price and product, and even before we get to sample what turned out to be a stunning single malt, the pack design and the bottle clearly communicate that this is special.
For the owners of sophisticated venues, they would choose Penderyn on the basis of its backbar presence alone; on back-illuminated shelving, the question isn’t going to be ‘which whisky?’ – the bottle has already made that decision.
At a retail price of around £65 a bottle, this represents amazing value, and the perfect entry into the world of Welsh whisky and single malts.
So, we have the packaging and price, two-thirds of the way there. What about the product?
The golden spirit was poured with anticipation and sampled with absolute pleasure. Whereas most writers reviewing whisky will be falling over themselves for similes and metaphors, I didn’t ‘get’ dark chocolate, or heather, or anything that the producers used to describe their whisky, which isn’t to say that they aren’t right with their analysis, but in my opinion when something is so good it’s enjoyed on an almost spiritual (no pun intended) level.
Yes, traditional drinks writers might pooh-pooh this approach, but when I am enjoying an outstanding meal or fine wine, personally, I am not looking to make comparisons, I am enjoying the overall sensations produced by a meal, a glass of wine or, in this case, an exceptional whisky.
On the nose there is a teasing hint of what’s to come; the first sip of the whisky is a revelation – the initial
taste is subtle and smooth, which gives way to a sublime complexity and comforting heat.
The mouthfeel is velvety smooth and the finish is rewarding, and enticing you take yet another sip.
You don’t need water or ice or a mixer; this whisky deserves to be appreciated as it was intended by the master distillers.
Our conclusion is simple: Welsh whisky is well and truly on the map. In the case of Penderyn’s 12-year-old single malt they have produced a whisky that despite is stunning complexity, is one that those who wouldn’t usually drink whisky would very quickly warm to.
It was an absolute pleasure to be one of the first people outside the distillery to sample this fine spirit and we look forward to keeping in touch with this sector-defining businesses.
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